Because the only available reproduction pumps are such c**p I have been selling a bunch of Austin Healey 3000 MkIII water pump rebuild kits and many people have asked me how difficult is it to rebuild one of these pumps?
The kits cost $US68.65 which includes domestic or international shipping.
The following is a step by step procedure for this job. It really isn’t that difficult.
DISASSEMBLY
The identifying feature for the BJ8 style pump is the lack of a hex nut in the center of the pulley because they use a “press on” pulley. A puller is required to remove these pulleys.
DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE PULLEY BY GRIPPING THE EDGE OF THE BELT GROOVE BECAUSE THE CASTING WILL BREAK.
The puller uses a 7/16 UNF forcing screw and the mounting bolts are on a 1.375″ pitch circle diameter. It is installed to the pulley using four 5/16″ x 1 ” UNF bolts.
Once the pulley has been removed the bearing locking wire needs to be located and removed.
Using a suitable tool remove the locking wire. The wire is usually made of brass or copper.
If the wire cannot be located and removed this step may be skipped although the force required to press the bearing out will be much higher and there is a significant risk that the pump body will be damaged.
Once the wire is out the bearing and impeller can be pressed out of the body.
While pressing out the bearing and impeller assembly be careful to provide clearance for the impeller and DON’T let it drop to the floor!!
Once this assembly has been pressed from the body the impeller must be pressed off to replace the bearing and seal. The impeller casting is easily broken so care must be taken when pressing it off the bearing shaft.
ALWAYS SUPPORT THE IMPELLER ON THE SEAL FACE DURING REMOVAL.
Carefully press the bearing shaft out of the impeller.
Once the impeller has been removed the bearing and seal can be discarded.
Careful examination of the seal from this recently rebuilt pump reveals that is is badly cracked.
REASSEMBLY
After cleaning and inspecting all the parts reassembly begins by inserting the seal back into the pump BY HAND!!
I always spread a very small amount of silicone sealant on the area of the seal that seats in the pump body.
I use a large socket to press the seal BY HAND securely into its seat in the pump body.
Next the bearing is pressed into the pump body from the outer end of the body. The shorter end of the bearing shaft accommodates the pulley.
NEW NOTE: When talking with a company that rebuilds lots of heavy equipment water pumps they recommended using a a few drops of Loctite (or similar) bearing retainer at this stage just to ensure that the bearing stays put in the housing. They have found that age and normal manufacturing tolerances can result in the fit being a little loose.
Press the bearing in using a tool which prevents load being applied to the bearing shaft.
Press the bearing in until the groove in the bearing is aligned with the internal groove inthe pump body. Don’t go too far.
Now install the wire retaining clip into the grooves. This can be a pain to achieve as some of the bearing grooves are smaller or larger than the originals. For replacement wire try 12, 14 or 16 gauge household copper wire.
Check the sealing face of the impeller for excessive grooves.
If the grooves are not too deep you can face the impeller off by rubbing it on sand paper on a flat surface.
If the grooves are really deep you can can face the impeller off in your lathe…you do have a lathe don’t you? Use fine sandpaper to produce a smooth surface.
Once the seal face is prepared the impeller can be pressed into position. Note that the shaft is on the base of the press which prevents the bearing from taking the pressing load.
NEW NOTE: I have occasionally encountered problems with leakage between the bearing shaft and the impeller. Using Loctite (or similar) here prevents this from becoming an issue.
Sockets Make The Best of Press Tools
When the end of the shaft is level with the face of the impeller STOP.. The impeller to body gap should be something like this.
If you rotate the pump at this stage your should hear the distinct “hissing” sound of the carbon seal.
Now press the pump down into the pulley.
Again STOP when the end of the shaft is level with the end of the hole in the pulley.
YOU ARE FINISHED
BTW I have rebuild kits for all 6 cylinder Austin Healeys
$US68.65ea which includes intentional shipping.
are you exporting these pumps to england
Michael
That seal is for a BJ8 pump, I know, but would it fit a pump for the earlier 3000?
hi Michael,
thanks for your advice.
I need to purchase x2 BJ8 water pump repair kits and I’m in Australia – how do I go about this?
kind regards
David
Dear Sir
Are you able to provide re-build kits for Healey 100’s?
Regards
Jeremy
No sorry Jeremy,
They are really difficult to find. There were some on eBay a little while back but the asking price was too rich for me.
Michael S
Hello Michael,can you supply a repair kit for the austin somerset water pump? Regards,peter.
Hi Peter,
Sorry can’t help with a Somerset water pump kit. I would guess that it is the same as an Austin Healey 100 pump which I have been unable to find parts for.
Re older 3000 pumps: I installed the kit and with the pix above it was probably easier than the BJ8 pump. I don’t have a lathe so used a drill press and file to dress the bearing surface on the front of the impeller.
Hi, Michael.
Thanks for your informative instructions. In the process of merely replacing the seal of my BJ8’s water pump and needed some reference. I pulled the impeller with a gear puller and will attempt to put it back without a press since I don’t have one. If it doesn’t work out, I may be in the market for a rebuilt water pump!
Hey Bob, you were lucky to get the impellor off with a gear puller, usually they break irreparably. If you press it on by applying the force in near the shaft you should be okay bu go slowly and be very careful to ensure that it is going on straight.
After everything, decided not to force the issue. I took the pump after starting the impeller to Napa where for $25 they pressed it home. Still have a problem, however. Lost about two quarts of antifreeze after toping up the radiator last evening. Hate to see green puddles on the garage floor in the morning. Took the radiator out again, and the pump. Need another gasket (or two, they’re cheap). Seems like I didn’t get the pump mounted tightly enough. Seal seems to have held well. Hard to get enough torque on the nuts because of the limited clearance near the pump flange. Can only use a 1/2″ crescent wrench because of the pulley being in the way. I used a gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket and thought that should do the trick. No dice. Any suggestions.
An adjustable “Crescent ” wrench is not really good enough for the job. I would look for an offset ring spanner.
It is also imperative that you completely clean both surfaces down to bare metal before trying to install the pump. Any remnants of the old gasket will cause problems.
Thanks, Michael. I try to never use “nut rounding” adjustable crescents. I do have some offset box wrenches which I believe is what you call ring spanners. I’ll try them when the new gasket arrives. Thanks you for your advise. Read with great interest your blog of the restoration of Healey #174. Very nice.
Michael
Are the rebuild kits for the BJ8 water pump still available
How do I buy one?
Contact me by email …. michaelsalter@gmail.com